You put in many more words what I was going to respond with: “he’s a fucking asshole and, if you can believe it, this article is being incredibly generous to him”. Part of the reason I posted this is the dude has been on K2 for a while now attempting a winter summit. I would’ve been super pissed if he was the first person in recorded human history to pull off that mountain in winter. Instead, I am beyond thrilled to report that nine(?) sherpas (your brown folks in the above comment) were the ones to pull it off.
"many more words" is my vice. Put more succinctly, "the system must drum out the assholes in order to survive as it is parasitic on the goodwill of those who can't afford to participate in it." I liked the bit about the guy who parked his tent a kilometer from the finish line and waited for his competitors. I wanna see that guy on the motivational circuit.