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He's not really lecturing though, is he? To me the tone seemed more as if he realized he had never really thought about the topic previously and that the whole situation seemed surreal to him. In trying to understand that feeling he did further investigation and had to think much more deeply than he ever anticipated. He then tried to convey this to the reader. I love this piece. Then again, I didn't read this in Gourmet magazine.It's controversial because people don't read Gourmet to be lectured about their choices.