I hate Vegas so much.
Here's the thing - if you're on the Strip you're seeing Disneyland Vegas. They work really, really hard to make sure you only see Disneyland Vegas. Actual Vegas is a bit of a drive. If you want to see Nicholas Cage/Elizabeth Shue Vegas, head down to the Former Ponderosa and start walking around.
Wander down Fremont street and look for pawn shops. That shithole they turned into Pawn Stars is down there somewhere; I'll bet it's changed since TV. It used to feel like Mos Eisley Spaceport.
Find yourself some nickel slots and walk through them. See all the blue-hairs bleeding their lives away five cents at a time.
Most of all, experience it on foot. Vegas is designed to be seen from the back seat of a car; when you experience it by sidewalk you experience it without artifice. It's a howling vortex of window air conditioners.