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Ended up taking highway 285 from Antonito to, I think, Tres Piedras. The best stretch was actually a little mountain road west of 285 into Colorado out of Chama. Did a loop there. Didn't get as far south as Espanola/Santa Fe -- wanted to go into Colorado backroads etc.
Stayed outside of Taos, above it at about 9300 feet, near the ski area. No skiing right now so it was reasonably cheap. Went into Taos once out of misguided curiosity, hated it, reminded me of every little tourist shitheap (ever been to Sanibel?) I've seen. But didn't stay in-town so not a loss.