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Hell yeah, it's the country I most regret not having the time to visit during my SE Asian trip. Everybody I know that went said it's amazing.

Also, it's in this phase where everybody is repeating the same "you got to go now because it's gonna be too touristy in a couple years" speech... I don't really get this disdain against everything touristy: we're tourists. And a couple years back when my friend went, there were absolutely no ATMs anywhere. Now they are in every little town. How is that not a positive thing?