yeah i did not fully understand this. you spent a night at 9000 feet, but not the actual night? why not?Setting up camp is always something of a ritual - you roll in and are done by 5pm and then getting ready to be moving again by 11pm...which, by the way, it's light out when you go to sleep and light out when you wake up. So you start moving when it's light, keep moving when it's light, move into the dark, and again while it's light out...it's a trippy experience and one that not everyone is able to handle well
Yes, we reached camp in the afternoon and napped and woke up again to start moving before midnight of the same day. For these kind of things you want to take advantage of "good" or at least improved snow conditions for ascent which typically occur overnight. On crevassed glaciers such as this one you are safer moving when the snow is firm and better able to support weight, which occurs with lower temps / wind chill. In general it is easier and faster moving uphill on firm snow as opposed to loose or wet, heavy snow which will occur during the day with enough sunlight + warmth.
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