Mostly a very silly movement.
It's not a very silly movement, it's an environment entirely too easily defrauded.
Here in Seattle the "farm to table" thing was much curtailed because we've had The Herb Farm since '86. They grew an impressive amount of their stuff on-site. To get there, you had to drive out to the middle of nowhere, and to get a meal you had to pay eye-watering prices. Not many people did, but everybody knew you could, so when the whole "farm to table" movement kicked in there was a skepticism that curtailed much of the craziness - after all, if an old-school "farm to table" prix fixe meal was $400, how "farm to table" could your $14 downtown BLT really be?
Down in Los Angeles stuff got stupid because
A) nobody in LA cooks
B) none of the grocery stores stock, like, produce
C) every neighborhood in LA County throws up a farmer's market in some vacant lot or other somewhere
D) Angelinos love the fuck out of paying cash for truck food so they can stand in the street and eat $4 tacos
So the environment is ripe for, let's say, "embellishment."
Anybody who has looked at the situation even cursorily will point out that there's no standard for "natural" and that certifying something as "organic" doesn't mean it was produced in the lowest-impact way possible and when Sysco makes 80% of the food you eat at a restaurant anyway, you're going to have to pay through the nose to actually eat something local.
But there are a lot of people, everywhere, that are willing to look the other way for plausible deniability. "They SAID it was locally grown", after all.