I like to know the customer the restaurant is catering to because it gives you an idea of how authentic a restaurant is. For example, if you read An Economist Gets Lunch, Cowen writes about getting Pakistani/Indian food in Edision, NJ, which has a large population of each group of people. The Pakistani restaurants in the area served more traditional food because their customers were also Pakistani, and expected a more authentic meal. I think it's important to talk about who the target customer is, just as much as it is to talk about how the food was because it can really give the reader a sense of the authenticity of the restaurant.
And of course, have fun! The best articles I ever wrote (not about food though) were the ones I enjoyed working on, and it definitely showed.