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I've been reading Ulysses this month (600 pages in). I agree with you, it is interesting but it often feels more like I'm doing a really hard crossword puzzle more than reading something that will strengthen my connection with humanity. At the end of each chapter I feel the rush of adrenalin I get when I solve a puzzle but reflecting on it the next day it just seems, for the most part, very hollow.
I'm with you on War and Peace too. That and The The Brothers Karamazov are two of my favorites. I also love East of Eden.